Winter in Hanoi

Wouldn't want the dog freezing - it was 22c that day

Vietnamese performance

A couple of weeks ago I went to a perfomance by Anh Khanh, dare I say Vietnam's most famous artist? It was out at his house in Gia Lam - neighbour province to Hanoi. His house and the surrounding grounds are filled with installations, sculptures and paintings - and the perfomance itself was quite something. I cannot explain what was going on as my art interpretation is not advanced enough to understand him, so I'll let the pics speak for themselves.

Violence in Hanoi Streets

Last week walking down Hang Trong towards the lake two moto's stopped in the middle of Nha Tho. There were two guys on one moto - two girls on the other. One of the guys jumps of, pulls the girl-driver off by her hair and stars punching her in the face!
We start screaming "stop!" - others pull up by the side, but no one except the other girl does something to try to stop him...

The girls run towards the church in her high heals - he chases her, punches her till she's on the ground screaming. She gets up and runs and tries to hide between the rather big crowd and finally a guy pulls the violent man by his arms and stops him.

The girl has blood running down from her lips - she looks dead scared. We start walking again, stunned and scared. I've never seen anyone hit a girl like that. I have never seen anyone hit a girl in my life! I felt paralysed - afraid to butt in. Maybe it's an excuse, maybe an explaination, but I'm a girl, tiny of size and I wouldn't have the strength to hold him down and stop him. But what about the 20 something guys standing around just looking doing nothing? Why didn't they try to stop him?

I didn't understand what was wrong as the guy was yelling at her in Vietnamese, but it was obvious they knew each other - and maybe there's some codex here in VN saying you don't mess with other people's domestic affairs? I don't think there's anything in the world that justifies domestic violence and when you take it to the streets of Hanoi, you'd except someone to react, step in, try to help. I don't think I have a guy-friend who wouldn't try to step in if he saw a girl getting beat up in the middle of the street...

Why was everyone so passive? I don't understand....

It's oh so cold

After Hong Kong I went on to Beijing where I for the first time since March felt really cold. The temp reached 0c at night and when I visited the Great Wall of China I could see my own breath piercing through the mist. I even bought a new winter jacket to keep the Chinese cold out ; )


After 6 days in Beijing I was looking forward to feel the warm humid Hanoi weather again and I was pleased when the temp showed 23c when I set foot on Vietnamese ground 11 pm. The humidity pressed against my body and I felt at home.

But oh, the joy only lasted a few days. After a hot weekend with the temp hitting a rocking 32c in the afternoon the following Monday summer was over and winter came in a flash! 19-23c is not much when you're used to 30c. The Hanoi winter feels cold and damp and last night I wore my grannie's home-knitted wollen socks, that's how cold I felt.

Yes, I know 19c is not that cold and in Denmark I'd probably be out in my bikini the first day of spring with temp barely over 20c, but here my body has gotten used to the humid hot Hanoi weather and does not seem to adjust very well to Northern Vietnamese winter weather. I wear a jacket and a scarf to work even though it's just across the street. It helps that the scarf is a lovely soft deep purple pashmina that bought on my most recent trip to Thailand ;)
Feeling cold reminds me of winter in Europe and that this Asian journey all too soon is coming to an end. Time is flying...

More Beijing images here